Katherine Round-Up

It hardly seems possible that we've already spent four nights in Katherine and are leaving tomorrow morning. We're heading West to a destination yet unknown. The plan is to get on the road and stop for a night or two when the mood strikes. Since I don't know where we'll be, I have no clue what internet access will be like but, as always, will update when I can.

Over the last couple of days we visited the Katherine Museum where we learned that Katherine was named in 1862 by explorer John Stuart after Catherine Chambers, the daughter of one of his sponsors.  Although he misspelled her name, it was never corrected and the town has been known as Katherine ever since.

While at the museum we saw the first Flying Doctor plane.

We also went to the Katherine Hot Springs.

We had a look around town where we saw the good

and the not so good.

Today we visited an ancient limestone cave called Cutta Cutta Cave.  It's called Cutta Cutta because in the local Aboriginal language Cutta means stars and cutta cutta means many stars.  The rock formations in the cave glisten and look like thousands of stars.  Unfortunately the effect was nearly impossible to photograph.

A snake was hiding in a little nook in the cave wall.

Columns

Gorgeous Katherine Gorge

We arrived in Katherine on Tuesday afternoon and spent today exploring Katherine Gorge. The gorge is actually a series of 13 sandstone gorges carved over billions of years.  It is located in Nitmiluk National Park, on the Katherine River.

The park was known as Katherine Gorge National Park until ownership was returned to the local Aboriginal (Jawoyn) people and renamed "Nitmiluk" meaning "Cicada Place".  The park is leased to the Northern Territory Government and jointly managed by the government and the Jawoyn people.

This is the less aggressive Freshwater Croc - one of several we spotted in the area.  The park rangers set traps baited with a pig's head or wombat leg to catch any Saltwater Crocs that may find their way into the area.  Somehow seeing the huge metal traps didn't do much to put my mind at ease.

A rock barrier separating two gorges.

We spent the whole day on the water and got to see three of the thirteen gorges.  The gorges were separated by rocks and when we reached the end of each gorge we would leave the boat and walk to the start of the next gorge before getting onto another boat waiting on the other side.

Having the opportunity to take a dip just beyond the third gorge was delightful, especially after the scramble over rocks at the end of the third gorge.  It was difficult, but manageable.

We were under the impression that the swim would be in the third gorge and hadn't expected the climb beyond it, but didn't give it much thought until later at the visitor's center.

Croc on a rock.

The scenery was stunning!  Below is Mike's favourite photo of the day.

We couldn't resist taking a photo of this cutie who we spotted as we were walking from the boat ramp back toward the visitor's center.

Hmmm...   this sign certainly wasn't there when we booked the tour!  That explains the unplanned trek over the rocks to get beyond the third gorge for a swim.  I am SO glad I didn't know this before we went.  Ignorance is bliss.

Kakadu - Cooinda

We left Jabiru yesterday morning stopping at Nourlangie Rock  for a look at the rock art, and Anbanbang Billabong before heading on to Cooinda where we plan to spend three nights.

This painting depicts a hunter hunting kangaroo with his spear.

Hand prints serving a purpose similar to the signature you'd find in the corner of modern-day artwork.

Aboriginal people used art as a means of communication.  They told stories relating to their culture, moral and religious beliefs.  In this painting the red breasts at the top left indicate "secret women's business", and the figure drawn with testicles signifies "men's business".  In Aboriginal culture it is common to have knowledge and ceremonies that are exclusively female or male.

Below is Nabulwinjbulwinj (pronounced Nar-bull-win-bull-win).  He is dangerous spirit that eats females after striking them with a yam.

The figure at the top is Namarndjolg.  He and his sister broke the incest laws on the rock ledge above this painting.  Sister is not a sister in the way we think of the relationship, rather a female of the same "skin group" which I touched on in my last entry.  In punishment he is tied to a tree and set on fire.  He is burning, but luckily for him his bindings burn and he escapes to river where he turns into Ginga, a saltwater crocodile.

Below Namarndjolg family groups are depicted on their way to a ceremony.  The two women on the right have flecks on their breasts which indicate that they are breastfeeding children.

Today we went on the "Yellow Water Cruise".  We were told that the sunrise and sunset cruises were the best for spotting wildlife (and the beautiful sky), and we chose to cruise at sunrise which was well worth the early start.

Cruising at sunrise was magic!

Only in Australia would they have ducks that don't swim, and whistle rather than quack.  You should have heard them!  They sounded like a bunch of songbirds.

This bird is a Jabiru which is a type of stork.  The place we camped at previously was named after this fellow.

And here is his massive nest.

Of course there were the requisite crocodiles in residence.  Amazing how after you've seen so many of them even crocs can become old hat!

This bird better not become too blasé about the crocs, as this croc may have him on his breakfast menu!

Even the non-quacking non-swimming whistling ducks know to keep a wide berth.

Water lilies

A close-up of the beautiful flower.

We were lucky to spot a white breasted sea eagle surveying the water below him.

As our boat approached an eagle swooped down right in front of it and plucked out a fish with it's talons.  It was an amazing sight!

Further along another sea eagle took flight causing pandemonium amongst the weird whistling ducks, and other birds.  They didn't want to become it's next meal and took to the air en masse, filling the sky with swooping and swirling hysterical birds.  David Attenborough, eat your heart out!