Karijini National Park

After a brief stay at Tom Price we headed off to Karijini National Park.

At 600.000 hectares (1,482,632 acres - about one third larger in area than Long Island), Karijini is one of the world's largest national parks.  Millions of years of erosion have created gorges, waterfalls and rock pools that are stunning against the red rock of the Pilbara.

The day we arrived we set up our campsite and had a look at some of the gorges from above.

Circular Pool - It's a long way down!

That night the stars were magnificent!

The following morning we started with the steep 800 meter trek down to Fortescue Falls.  I was a bit worried about walking back up but actually found the walk up easier than the descent.

Fortescue Falls - worth the trip!

Mike at the top of Fortescue Falls

We followed the path for another 300 or so meters to Fern Pool

Fern Pool - so inviting

Best massage ever!

Later that day we ventured to another part of the park to see some more gorges and lookouts. 

Oxer lookout where four gorges converge.  A spectacular view which, as usual, the photos don't do justice to.

Joffre Gorge Waterfall

Mount Bruce (yes, really)

View of the Marandoo Mine Site from the Mount Bruce walk.

Mount Bruce views

On our way back to Tom Price

We spent two nights at the Dales Campground in Karijini NP, and as I write this we are back in Tom Price for the night, mostly to catch up on the blog, emails and phone messages, and to have showers. 

Tomorrow we'll get some fuel and make our way toward Exmouth, our next major stop.  There will probably be a couple of stopovers between here and there where we are unlikely to have phone or internet accesss.

See you in Exmouth!

Tom Price via Warlu Way

Still making our way to Karijini National Park, we left Point Samson with a plan to make a supplies stop at the mining town of Tom Price, approximately 50k from Karijini NP.  We decided to take the scenic Warlu Way, which would bring us over a combination of bitumen and dirt roads.

As we drove the landscape quickly changed from beach to red earth and rugged mountain.  The colours were simply amazing and we oohed and aahed our way through the first hour or so of the drive.

A very long iron ore train

The road became dirt, and still we were marveling at the views and I was busy snapping photos through the windscreen - not an easy task over corrugated roads (not to mention that damn CB antenna!).

Ooh Aah! :)

We drove, and drove, and then drove a bit more.  Soon the Warlu Way started to feel more like the Worry Way!  Perhaps we missed a turn somewhere?  There were a few dirt tracks coming off of the one we were on, none of which seemed right at the time.  In any case, we came to the realization that we were lost, had no phone service, and a finite amount of fuel.

Not one to miss a photo opportunity, I continued to snap away as we drove in the direction that felt right.  In the end we ended up doing a few extra kilometers (okay, 100) but we got to drive through some gorgeous country.  I'd highly recommend the route to you if only I knew what it was.

At last we arrived at Tom Price. A bit dusty, but none the worse for wear.

Mike clearly looking forward to cleaning off the red dust.

Snorkeling Is Fun!

Today we took the 75 kilometer drive to Karratha to have a look around and shop for snorkel gear. We plan on doing some snorkeling in Exmouth, a bit further down the track, and thought it would be best to get the gear and some practice in here in Point Samson.

Before we went we had learned that the mask is the most important part of the set-up, and that when people have a bad snorkeling experience it's generally because of an ill-fitting mask. Armed with what to look for, and directions to a water sports shop, we set off for Karratha.

The result:

Sexy! 

It couldn't possibly get any dorkier than this!

Or could it?

This afternoon we went out for our first snorkeling attempt.  It was fantastic!!  We stayed in the shallow water getting used to the mask and flippers.  It was awkward at first but soon felt quite natural and I even managed to follow a couple of fish around.  We were both amazed the speed we could swim with the flippers.

It was so much fun, and we weren't even looking at anything particularly impressive.  We can't wait to try it out at some of the beautiful snorkeling spots coming up.  In the meantime we extended our stay here yet again, and tomorrow will be going to honeymoon cove for some more practice.

The beach where we snorkeled today - a 2 minute walk from our camp.

Now I'm left wondering why we didn't give it a go sooner.  Who knew snorkeling was so much fun?

Port Hedland to Point Samson

We were able to get a site at the caravan park in Port Hedland so decided to stay and have a look around and top up our supplies.

Port Hedland isn't a tourist town, it's an iron ore mining town with most of the population working for mining companies. Successful mining has led to a surge of population in the area which is the largest in the Pilbara. High rental prices have lead to many workers living in cabins in the local caravan parks. There are "help wanted" signs posted outside just about every business in town from restaurants to retail. I found it humorous to see so many people walking around town and in the shops wearing flouro safety clothes.

The port is the largest in Australia in terms of tonnage. Iron ore is transported from throughout the Pilbara region to Port Hedland by trains that are several kilometers long (I'd hate to get stuck at that railway crossing!). Once at Port Hedland massive conveyors load the ships for export.

A local park with great views of port operations.

Tugs on either side of a massive ore ship pushing and pulling to assist in guiding the ship out of port.

China bound

We are still making our way toward Karijini National Park, and the next day we headed off in that general direction with no fixed destination planned. We made a pittstop at the Whim Creek Hotel and ran into Dave and Bronwyn, a couple that we originally met in Mataranka, over 1500 kilometers away. We also met up in Darwin and Derby and no doubt will cross paths again.

Cossack was our next stop where we had a look at the abandoned pioneer town. It was a bit eerie walking through the ghost town viewing the buildings, and we learned a bit about it's rough history as we walked through the display in the former prison.

Mike heard that the fish and chips at Point Samson, a small fishing village, was a "must do" and we headed there for lunch. As we drove down the foreshore toward the only restaurant in town (well, there's two actually - both in the same building) we couldn't help but notice the lovely beach and caravan park on the foreshore. We've been here ever since. :)

Although we gave up our fish and chips lunch for a swim at the beach we made up for it at dinner.  We are camped only a couple of meters from the beach and have found another lovely spot a few meters further along called honeymoon cove that we plan on having a dip in today. There's a reef here and today we're going to get our snorkel equipment organised and do some practicing so we're ready for Exmouth.

Quondong and Port Smith

Here we sit at a golf club car park in Port Hedland where we finally have internet access after a week of being out of range.  We still don't know who the elected PM is, but the way it was looking a week ago, perhaps the rest of Australia doesn't either.

We arrived in Port Hedland last night to find the entire town booked out. We thought about heading to one of the camping spots listed in our Camps 5 book, but Mike was concerned that we'd be arriving after dark which makes picking a suitable spot and setting up difficult, especially when having to drive off-road to access the camping area.  We were directed to the overflow camping area at the Port Hedland Golf Club (a bit odd, but there are others camped here too, and at least there are toilets and good showers).  We need to buy some supplies in town before we head off toward Karijini National Park.   If we can get a site at the park here tonight we'll stay for a day or two and then we'll most likely be out of range for another week, so I thought I'd try and upload a catch-up post before we are incommunicado again.

After we left Broome we headed for Quondong Point, which is on the way to Cape Leveque.  It was a bit of a rough road getting in, but well worth the effort.

We had a fantastic spot to ourselves over the beach with a short walk down to the water.  The closest camper was about 100 meters away.

Perched over our "private" beach.

What a view from our camper!

We keep telling ourselves that we're going to stop taking photos of sunsets.  How many pictures of sunsets can one have?  Our resolve lasts up until the time that the sun begins to set, at which point we find ourselves awed by it's beauty and quickly reaching for the camera.  So you'll likely have to put up with a few more.  We were mesmerized by the reflections in the clouds and settled in for a night of serenity, lulled by the ocean breeze and sound of the surf.

 All that quickly changed when we heard a car drive up after dark.  In it were two distressed young women and children.  They had left their partners 2 kilometers back on the road in with a leaking and hissing gas bottle in the back of their ute (pick-up).  Apparantly they had stopped along the road when one of the children smelled gas.  On inspection they found that the child's bicycle had knocked against the gas bottle while driving on the corrugated road and caused it to leak.  Luckily they had a friend traveling with them and the women set off in one couple's van while the men waited with the car.  They were afraid to open the ute's canopy for fear that it would it explode (and it would have!), and were stuck waiting at a distance until the gas dissipated and the car was safe to approach.

They were worried and the children were frightened.  Mike put out a call for assistance on the CB and we suggested that they camp near us rather than drive around on the sand in the dark risking gettin bogged.  He also gave them some warning triangles which they brought back to their partners to put around the car.  Some time during the night the men made their way to the campground.  It gave them a fright but thankfully nobody was hurt. After spending the morning at the beach and having a chat they headed off.

The beach was beautiful and we spent two nights there having a wonderful time.  We would have stayed longer except for one small problem.  Sunburn!  We hadn't taken to account the reflection of the sun on the water even when we were in the shade, and oh boy did we pay for it!  Although it seems funny now, at the time it was very uncomfortable.

Swathed in sunscreen and aloe vera gel we decided not to continue onto Cape Leveque which is also more beaches (and sun - ouch!).  We were going to stop at Barn Hill which we'd heard great things about, but is also camping on a beach and we were more than beached out at this point.  Instead we decided on Port Smith which is situated on a lagoon which we imagined would be a shadier and cooler.

Port Smith has got to be the friendliest caravan park we've ever been to, and it just reinforced what we have found time and time again in our travels.  You simply cannot judge a place on first sight, or even after a short time.  Some of our favourite spots have been places that were initially unimpressive and grew to be wonderful once we absorbed the "vibe" of the place.

Anyway, we drove 23 kilometers down a dirt track and arrived at Port Smith Caravan Park which initially looked like a typical arid and dusty park.  After begging for a spot with shade, we were given a great spot close to the amenities (which were all ensuites and immaculate) and with shade from the afternoon sun. After setting up we went for a quick look at the lagoon which was basically unimpressive.  Lots of sand and a small trickle of water in one spot.  Massive disappointment especially after hearing how great the lagoon was.  What was all the fuss about?  We had seriously underestimated the magnitude of the tide!

Home Sweet Home

 The caravan park also runs a shelter for injured kangaroos who they release back into the wild when possible.  They were everywhere, and so funny to see them boxing!  I had no idea kangaroos actually boxed!  I thought that was something that Disney made up with their cartoons of giant mouse-like kangaroos in boxing rings with big red boxing gloves.  Mike took a video which I must have watched a hundred times.  I still laugh every time I think of it, and I am gutted that I somehow deleted the video in trying to upload it to the blog to share with you. :(

And in this corner...

That roo's got a mean right hook!

After a couple of days of hiding from the sun like vampires we drove out to the cliffs for a look around.  Gorgeous!!  Worth the boggy drive over soft sand to get there.  The fishing is great off the cliffs, but that day people were coming back empty handed so we didn't get our fishing rods out.  We did spot a manta ray swimming about though.

King of the world..

You know that tide I mentioned earlier?  Well, below is a photo I took of Mike fishing one evening at the entrance of the lagoon at low tide as it drained into the ocean.

Yeah, I know - I snuck in another sunset photo

We walked past these trees on the way to the fishing spot above.

Here are the same trees taken from our boat when the tide was in!  The smaller ones are completely under water and we rode right over them.  Surreal.

The beach area at low tide

Hey, who pulled the plug?

Launching our boat at the same beach at high tide.

We had so much fun out on the boat, and even managed to catch some fish.

Too bad they were so small and were thrown back in.  We ate really well in spite of having to throw back our fish.  People at the park were so lovely .. and generous.  Those who caught fish offered us some and we had lovely meals of freshly caught fish.  Last night we had two beautiful tuna fillets that were given to us.  And they were huge.. more than we could possibly eat. Yummm!!

Also, people donated fish that they caught to the park who then made fish and chips one night along with a night of entertainment.  It was only $5 for a delicious meal (plus Mike had to "wiggle" to the music for our chips) and the proceeds went to the Australian Flying Doctors.  It was a great night of games, general silliness and music by "Malcolm and the Budgie Smugglers".

One for Mike

And one for me

Another for me!

At the end of the day that made 2 for Mike and 4 for me (but who's counting?).  Actually, I kept him pretty busy baiting my hook and releasing my fish.  Not to mention several untangling sessions he had with my line.  But, lets not dwell on that ... I caught more fish than him!  Heh!

This adorable turtle kept swimming by and popping his head up out of the water as we were fishing.

We had originally booked into Port Smith for a couple of days and then extended for a few more.  By the end of our  visit we could easily see why some people stayed for weeks, or even months and came back every year.

Our last night was spent having drinks and nibbles with Malcolm (of budgie smuggler fame) and Tania who are permanent travelers currently working at the caravan park.  They are temporarily living at a home on the property and it was odd for Mike and I to be sitting in a house after so long on the road.  They were wonderful hosts and a lovely couple.  I hope we see them again in our travels.

Time to leave this golf course and move on to a real site.  See you down the road.